The Mystery of La Boca, Buenos Aires’ Famous Neighborhood

Lens-Artists Photo Challenge #246

This week, Patti challenges us to present still life images. I almost sat out this challenge, since I think of my photos as experiences more than art. Patti’s photos are artistic, and are a must-see, and she also showed how the rules can be bent. Also, thanks to John for further inspiring me, so check out his his creative take on the challenge.

Still Life In La Boca: A “Model” Neighborhood

La Boca may be Buenos Aires’ most famous neighborhood. Tango started here, and the country’s most famous soccer team, Boca Junior, is just a few blocks from the touristy center.

Here at the Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca, located in Benito Quinquela Martin’s former home, we found this beautiful model of the famous neighborhood.

The sidewalks were built high off the street level, protecting the houses from floods. The neighborhood was also the city’s port. That’s how it became a working class neighborhood.

Look at how detailed this model is, giving you the chance to peek into the buildings.

Quinquela was known as the artist who painted La Boca. He was born here in 1890. His father was an immigrant from Genoa, Italy, and his mother was indigenous.

You’re probably curious about the real neighborhood. How could I disappoint you. And, although I’m stepping out of the still life challenge, La Boca feels like life frozen in time.

This is a real-life arcade of stores in La Boca. You enter this arcade of stores from the street. The structure was once a conventillo, where many families lived, sharing a kitchen and bathrooms.

La Boca Dramatized Through Art

Aixa was explaining what she felt from this Eduardo Sivori painting. She wasn’t so happy when she noticed me a few steps back, taking her picture instead of listening to her. Oops. But Aixa is so expressive, these moments are difficult to resist.

As Aixa explained (a second time), a sailor has just died, his wife and older child are in tears and the younger child is too young to understand what’s going on.

Here is a Quinquela painting.

Stepping Into Another Era In La Boca

All of the restaurants in El Caminito (the tourist part of La Boca) offer free tango shows with your meal. Of course, it’s touristy, but tango was invented in La Boca, and the dancers are wonderful.

I’m just four blocks to the famous soccer stadium where Boca Junior plays. We could see it in the distance behind us. La Boca is very dangerous once you leave the touristy area, though. You’ll need a guide to visit the stadium.

El Obrero, A Special Restaurant For Soccer Fans

Aixa is posing with Jorge, who’s worked at El Obrero in La Boca for 58 years. The staff all live here in La Boca.⁣ The name of the restaurant means The blue collar worker.

The restaurant is a five-minute taxi ride from El Caminito. As a tourist, you come to this restaurant and you leave by taxi. The waiters will make sure you have one.⁣ It’s too dangerous to venture out on your own.

El Obrero is always crowded with tourists, celebrities (sometimes from Hollywood) and locals.The Boca Juniors players come after the games.⁣

The portions are huge and the prices are low. Juan Carlos, one of the owners, said there aren’t any recipes or chefs.


La Boca itself feels like a museum. It’s a colorful and fun neighborhood, built by mostly Italian immigrants who struggled for a better life. You won’t want to miss it on a trip to Buenos Aires. These immigrants are the people who invented tango. And although we all know tango for the dance, the lyrics were all about the hardships of life, about drinking too much, and about heartbreak.

13 responses to “The Mystery of La Boca, Buenos Aires’ Famous Neighborhood”

  1. I love this one, Dan! The juxtaposition of the model with real life- I had no thought that I was looking at a model in the first shots. It sounds like a dangerous but exciting place. Somewhere I’d love to watch tango.

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    1. There are about seven square blocks of tourist area that are safe, and I’ll trust everyone else that the rest is better to avoid. Thanks, Jo.

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  2. Thanks so much for the new perspective on LaBoca Dan. We spent a day there during our visit to South America and found it filled with life and color. Interesting to hear how it began as well as the meaning behind the beautiful music and dance. Your images are wonderful still life examples – a very creative approach to the challenge.

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    1. I loved Buenos Aires so much in the time we lived there, I studied it with a fever. I’m glad you got to enjoy the neighborhood. I think you’ve been everywhere.

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  3. Fascinating post and images, Dan. You really gave me a very clear idea of the flavor of this city. I love that you included models of the city–a great idea for still life!

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    1. Thanks, Patti. Those model buildings were done so well, with so much detail. It’s an amazing neighborhood, like no other I’ve been to.

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  4. Wow, Dan! These images are so colorful and they entice me to consider another trip to South America soon! Nice work for the challenge this week!

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    1. Thanks, John. Buenos Aires is worth another trip. It’s a fascinating city.

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  5. Great stills. I am glad you didn’t sit this one out. You have some clever captures, and interesting places to capture them . Sometimes the challenges are a great way of making us rethink our “normal”. This was nice, Dan.

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    1. Thanks, Donna. I almost did sit this one out. John inspired me. The power of community.

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      1. Yes. The power of community. I think what makes this community so nice is the different personalities, not just ours, but those who come along with us. And what is nice is it is always based on interpretation, isn’t it?

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      2. You said that so well.

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  6. A wonderful post with many interesting shots. Thanks for sharing.

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